Speyside Golf Whisky Trail is one of a kind

SPEYSIDE, Scotland - Golf & Whisky. What a marvellous combination. I was in my element sitting in the Quaich Bar at the Craigellachie Hotel in Speyside, the epicentre of the Scotch malt whisky industry.

Surrounding me, covering almost every inch of wall space, were just under600 different single malt whiskies each offering a cornucopia of bouquets,notes and hints.

My knowledge of Scotch single malts was meagre compared to the young Austrian couple sitting nearby. I was nursing a Glenallachie, a whisky from Aberlour just 2 miles away, while the couple were expounding with the Japanese barman the particulars of their personal collection - 180 bottles,a medium-sized cache in collecting terms but a spirited testament to their interest.

Jimmy, the Japanese barman's acquaintance with the subject was spectacular.

"How did you get to know so much about Scotch single malts?" I asked him as he poured another Glenallachie.

"I am a PhD language student in Edinburgh and temporary relief here," he said. "You should meet the usual 'Keeper of the Quaich Bar' - TatsuyaMinagawa!"

Tatsuya was on holiday back home in Japan but his Quaich Bar has been voted "The Best Whisky Bar in the World" (Scottish Field magazine 2003),"The Glenlivet Whisky Bar of the Year - 2003 and the "Glenmorangie Hotel Barof the Year" 1999. In short, if you like whisky, this is the place to be!

Jimmy poured me another glass, this time a 12-year old Glenlivet; ahoneyed, biscuit-sweet flavour with a malty edge. I was on a learning curve that was somehow getting more curvaceous as the evening progressed.

"Our most expensive whisky is a 1945 Macallan at £175 a nip," Jimmy said,"There is a Dalmore reputedly at £26,000 per bottle - but its value is in its rarity. Drinking it would be like biting into old furniture."

I decided not to try any 'old furniture' and stick with the delightful Glenlivet. I was warming to this work and reflecting on what a wonderful idea a golf holiday in this particular part of Scotland was. We were following the Speyside Golf Whisky Trail, a marriage made in heaven of two of Scotland's most celebrated exports, in a region that can only be described as scenically stunning.

Speyside is renowned for offering the best of Scotland: its food, malt whisky, Highland landscapes, salmon fishing, shooting, skiing, hiking and of course golf. Our itinerary took in seven superb Scottish Highland and coastal links courses as we followed the River Spey with the smell of peat fires and barley malt never too far away.

Our golf sojourn commenced at Kingussie Golf Club, an exceptional Highland track with views over the Cairngorm and Monadhliath mountain ranges. The first four holes are a formidable start before the course climbs and presents a mixture of lighter but none-the-less riveting Highland challenges.

Harry Vardon completed Kingussie's design in 1908 and the route has changed little since. Golf does not get more scenic than this and the course plays as pleasingly as it appears.

Boat of Garten was our next port of call, a curious name for a Highland village, given to it by a small ferryboat service that once crossed the River Spey here. Boat of Garten Golf Club is one of the most enchanting golf courses I've ever encountered - playing over billowing fairways amid heather, gorse and birch.

And just when you think this sylvan golf nirvana couldn't get any better,a steam engine and its ancient carriages trundles past the 3rd, 4th, and 6thholes, hooting its arrival at Boat of Garten station.

These are echoes of golf's Golden Age when such a conveyance transported Victorian holidaymakers to sample the then, as now, highly fashionable Highlands and its new golf courses. One hundred years ago the Scottish Highlands offered the ideal retreat from cramped city life with crystal clear air, gorgeous scenery and warm welcomes. Nothing has changed.

Coming to a 'spiritual' understanding of malt whisky takes time and youmust sample as many 'drams' as you are capable, comparing their delicatenotes and fragrant finishes.

More than half of Scotland's whisky distillers are in the Speyside region and most are open to the public for 'educational' visits. The Glenlivet, Glenfarclas, Glenfiddich and the Macallan are all close at hand each offering a convivial and informative visitor centre.

Centuries ago, an illegal whisky distilling trade flourished here in the hidden glens and veiled birch woods of Speyside. A small still could be setup and just as easily dismantled should the excise man be making his rounds.The peat fires and pure waters used at that time established the unique flavours now expected of genuine Scotch whisky, so much so that no other country in the world has been able to emulate it.

Ballindalloch Castle Golf Club is a new 9-hole course set in the middle of whisky-tasting country. In spite of its young vintage already there are claims that it is the best 9-hole course in Scotland. Designers Donald Steele and Tom McKenzie must have been moon-struck when asked to create a superlative 9-green/18-tee track with full USPGA greens in this absolutely stunning part of the Spey valley.

The greens, though still slow are perfectly formed and will come on, I predict, to be the course's outstanding feature. At a total of 6,417 yards(playing both sets of tees - quite effectively 18 holes), there is ample challenge for the longest hitters.

The operation at Ballindalloch Castle Golf Club is integral with neighbouring Ballindalloch Castle, a charming, fairy-tale family home open to the public and one of the most successful tourist attractions in the area. This relationship has lent an air of high quality and good service within the golf club; the little clubhouse is resplendent with tartan rugs,a cosy atmosphere and good choice of drams for after-golf toasting.

The estate has several cottages for rent overlooking the golf course or within the castle grounds and they are worth considering for small groups or families.

There are several more courses dotted along or near the banks of the River Spey as it meanders towards the Moray Firth. We played two others near Ballindalloch - Grantown-on-Spey Golf Club and Dufftown. Both were admirable tests with superb views and course conditions but it was Dufftown that really won us over.

It's a fun course, ideal for a less-serious outing in spite of two hilly holes to start. Once you are up, Dufftown presents a host of amusing challenges with some spectacular views over this famous whisky-producing valley - there are seven working distillers in Dufftown alone.

The clubhouse camaraderie is also excellent. To the north of Ballindalloch is the main market town of Elgin where you will find a superb inland test. Elgin Golf Club is a challenging heathland layout with a demand for long accurate drives and precise approaches.

Only a few minutes north from Elgin is the town of Lossiemouth and here there are two superb links courses. Like the Old Course at St Andrews, the courses start and finish almost in the town. As links courses they are classic, the Old offering surely one of the tightest finishes. The New course has much smaller greens and in many ways we found it even more demanding.

Moray Old and New offer a day ticket to play both at £55.00 which is good value on two testing seaside links. One thing to keep in mind though is that the courses are located between the beach and RAF Lossiemouth's runway,which often entails fighter jets taking off and landing, rather noisily at times - but not enough to spoil these two testing links.

The esteemed Nairn Golf Club is also within easy driving distance of the area. Host to the 2000 Walker Cup, Nairn is a solid test of all aspects of your game and should only be considered by accomplished players. Nairn Dunbar, also in Nairn is a slightly easier yet challenging test at a more reasonably-priced green fee.

The Speyside Golf Whisky Trail is a wonderful opportunity to sample some of the best elements of the 'Home of Golf.' While the busier, more popular(and expensive) parts of the country such as St Andrews or East Lothian annually attract thousands of golfers, here is a region that is still serene, a magnificent valley with most excellent scenery.

What I really liked about the courses in Speyside was their lack of pretension; some were designed by members many decades ago and others have big-name architects attached to their origins. But all have tremendous character befitting an area that produces a spirit similarly full of character.

After golf, we ambled back to the Quaich Bar to discuss our game and continue our education.

"As newly-qualified whisky aficionados, there are some toasts you really ought to know," Jimmy told us and proceeded to recite them.

And here they are, to help prepare you for your own golfing expedition to Speyside and the Golf Whisky Trail.

The Selkirk Grace: written by Robert Burns, this is a grace offered before meals at Scottish gatherings.

Some hae meat, and canna eat,And some wad eat that want it;But we hae meat, and we can eatAnd sae the Lord be thankit.

Off course

We stayed at Ballindalloch for a couple of days and got to know the area better. The castle and its gardens are a delight. The Haugh is an excellent play area for children with an electric 00 gauge miniature train, the engine and carriages fashioned from whisky barrels.

There is the Lady Laird's Shop and Castle Tea Room. Trout fishing can be arranged through the castle on the River Avon that passes by the Ballindalloch course and indeed the Spey, though this is one of the mostexpensive salmon beats in Scotland.

Shooting and deer stalking are also available and especially popular with corporate parties.

Dining out

Only a few minutes away from Ballindalloch is the Minmore House Hotel(www.minmorehousehotel.com), with the most recommended restaurant in thearea.

This comfortable, stone-built country house stands amid the magnificent scenery of the Glenlivet Crown Estate in Speyside surrounded by 90 square miles of glens and moorlands in the Grampian Highlands. By good fortune it is right next door to Glenlivet Distillery.

Sitting in the elegant drawing room with cosy log fires sampling the most British of institutions - afternoon tea (especially the unbelievably delicious chocolate whisky and yoghurt cake) - we booked for dinner for the following evening.

Let's just say Minmore House is a gastronomic gem, possibly one of the best dining experiences in Scotland. The award-winning restaurant specialises in fine Scottish produce using only fresh local ingredients including vegetable and herbs from their own kitchen garden.

Oh, and the rooms are welcoming too.

The three hotels mentioned below contain some of Speyside's top restaurants. But there are others worth considering.

Lisi's Restaurant (01479 831339), on the A95 near Boat of Garten. Steaks, venison and wiener-schnitzel (breaded pork) served with an Austrian influence. The exterior and interior is intriguing, complete with beer steins and Austrian carvings - in fact there's wood everywhere.

Mount View Hotel (01479 821248) at Nethy Bridge. A one rosette restaurant serving modern Scottish cuisine with a nice touch of in-season wild food,such as fungi and wild vegetables with herbs from their own kitchen garden.

A Taste of Speyside (01340 820860), Dufftown. Nothing fancy but they buy the best and present it simply. Everything is cooked to order and portions are generous.

Craggan Mill (01479 872288), at Grantown on Spey. Casual, roadside restaurant for lunch-time menu.

JJ's Restaurant (01479 870100), at Grantown on Spey. Casual, bistro type in middle of Grantown.

Where to stay

Did we mention the Minmore House Hotel? We did? OK, then try these alternatives along the route as well: The Craigellachie Hotel of Speyside(www.craigellachie.com); Ballindalloch Castle self-catering cottages(www.ballindallochcastle.co.uk); The Boat Hotel at Boat of Garten(www.boathotel.co.uk); Chapelton Steading self-catering studio flats, at Boat of Garten (www.boatofgarten.com/chapelton).

February 27, 2004